typhoon barrel

The entry level PCP from FX with grown-up performance! Together with the 12 or 16 shot variant, the FX T-12 in all types (FX1000 / FX1000-22 / FX1002 / FX1002-22 / FX1012 / FX1012-22 / FX1212 / FX1212-22). Also known as Logun Solo. The Biathlon model is also based on this platform.

typhoon barrel

Postby leelandy on Wed Dec 02, 2015 11:26 am

Hi I have a fx typhoon .177 and I've noticed the the barrel clamp / band at the end can twist and making the barrel via off to one side or the other. Is this a common problem or anyone know of a fix ?
Thanks
Lee
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby Solo1 on Wed Dec 02, 2015 3:27 pm

I had the same problem a little while ago. I was just taking a shot and missed by about 4 inches to the left. I realized that the barrel-band had become slightly loosened and had pushed the barrel to the left. The fix was actually quite simple.

After re-positioning the barrel and making sure that everything was in line, I tightened the grubs-crews and then, using a toothpick, I ran a little clear fly-tying varnish (very quick-setting) all round between the cylinder and the barrel-band. After drying, this held the barrel band nicely in place and has never shifted. If you need to remove it for any reason then a little thinners dribbled around the join will soften it within a few seconds and make removal easy without leaving any marks or damaging the cylinder in any way..
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby leelandy on Wed Dec 02, 2015 7:42 pm

Thanks for the reply I stripped it down today removed silencer and removed the long Allen bolt that attaches the cylinder end cap to the barrel end shroud part with 2 o rings in and removed the grub screw that attaches the cylinder cap to the cylinder cleaned and allowed the barrel to spring into its own position refitted the barrel shroud cap and refitted the cylinder end cap and screwed back into place and it seems it be OK I gave them a little more of a tweek with the Allen key will see how it goes and if happens again I'll try the fly varnish
Thanks again
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby Solo1 on Wed Dec 02, 2015 8:32 pm

Ah!, I didn't realize your's had the one-piece end cap and barrel-band. My one has the after-market barrel-band that is just attached by a couple of grub screws
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby cyclone sniper on Fri Dec 04, 2015 9:02 pm

no need for barrel bands really .. free floating is more accurate
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby Solo1 on Sat Dec 05, 2015 12:15 am

cyclone sniper wrote:no need for barrel bands really .. free floating is more accurate


Sorry sniper but I can't agree with you on that one. Without a barrel-band fitted, the weight of the moderator pushes the barrel downwards towards the cylinder. Likewise, if the rifle is canted even a small amount, gravity will pull the moderator down and to one side. You would require a very thick barrel to stop that happening.

This is fine and not a problem if you're target shooting but it's a very real problem if you're hunting and taking shots at all angles. A shot taken almost vertically into the top of a tree will allow the barrel to spring away from the cylinder and add to the well-documented problem of high strikes when shooting at steep angles.

If you don't believe me then try a set of feeler gauges between the barrel and cylinder a varying angles.
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby leelandy on Sun Dec 06, 2015 8:46 am

Thanks for the replys my next question was going to be do I need a barrel band but after reading your reply I'll leave it on
Thanks for your input
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby Solo1 on Sun Dec 06, 2015 1:06 pm

leelandy wrote:Thanks for the replys my next question was going to be do I need a barrel band but after reading your reply I'll leave it on
Thanks for your input


That's a sensible decision, I think. Apart from strengthening and supporting the barrel it might save a lot of inexplicable misses.

If the weight of the moderator causes the barrel to droop by just a ½mm that will equate to the impact point being about 35mm low at 35 yards. As I said before; with target shooting that's not a problem but in hunting conditions that's a wounded animal rather than a clean kill.
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby cyclone sniper on Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:57 pm

Solo1 wrote:
cyclone sniper wrote:no need for barrel bands really .. free floating is more accurate


Sorry sniper but I can't agree with you on that one. Without a barrel-band fitted, the weight of the moderator pushes the barrel downwards towards the cylinder. Likewise, if the rifle is canted even a small amount, gravity will pull the moderator down and to one side. You would require a very thick barrel to stop that happening.

This is fine and not a problem if you're target shooting but it's a very real problem if you're hunting and taking shots at all angles. A shot taken almost vertically into the top of a tree will allow the barrel to spring away from the cylinder and add to the well-documented problem of high strikes when shooting at steep angles.

If you don't believe me then try a set of feeler gauges between the barrel and cylinder a varying angles.



i use a HW 100 mod on my fac cyclone ... no barrel droop , shoots super accurate ... a barrel springing away from the cylinder on vertical shots is a new on me !!!!! and i cant see how this would be possible
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Re: typhoon barrel

Postby Solo1 on Sun Dec 06, 2015 11:02 pm

cyclone sniper wrote:
i use a HW 100 mod on my fac cyclone ... no barrel droop , shoots super accurate ... a barrel springing away from the cylinder on vertical shots is a new on me !!!!! and i cant see how this would be possible


Even the lightest moderators will still have some noticeable effect. The weight of any moderator MUST act together with gravity and force the unsupported barrel down. Simple laws of physics dictate that any weight on the end of a lever will exert rotational force, or torque. Torque is the product of the rotational force exerted at right angles( in this case, downwards) on the lever, multiplied by the distance between the point of force and the fulcrum, or in this case the the joint between barrel and breech.

This effect is most noticeable when the rifle is held horizontally and will cause the moderator to push down on the end of the barrel and close the gap between barrel and cylinder. If you then move the rifle to a vertical position, then torque will not be applied to the barrel; it will just have gravity acting upon it to force the barrel in a straight line back towards the breech. This in turn will allow the barrel to spring away from the cylinder to a point at, or beyond, its original position.

Try to pick up an empty tin can with the tip of a 12-foot fishing rod if you need to see this effect in operation.
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