Fx2000 Barrel

The model which started it all. Also known as Webley FX2000 and RWS Exalibre. FX Tarantula and FX Timber Wolf seem to be similar rifles, as is the FX Rapier.

Fx2000 Barrel

Postby mikey317541 on Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:09 am

Hiya guys...

A quickie,How do i take off the barrel from my fx2000?

thanks in advance

Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2016 5:42 pm

Re: Fx2000 Barrel

Postby mikey317541 on Sat Nov 19, 2016 12:43 am


Need help on removing the barrel to replace o-rings.ANYONE?


Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2016 5:42 pm

Re: Fx2000 Barrel

Postby daisy on Sat Nov 19, 2016 7:33 am

Hope this helps you. Much more then just the barrel but that is covered as well.

Here we go.It's pretty straightforward but you must work clean out of dust etc on a nice towel etc.

1.Remove the stock.Two screw ahead of the trigger guard.One is longer than the other so just watch it.(Edit be sure to note which is which)

2.DRAIN THE AIR!!! Release screw between the stock screw holes. (Edit: it is not necessary to drain the air if you are only going to take out the hammer assbly. In future if you are doing a strip down for valve stem maintenance you WILL have to drain the air).

3.Remove bbl/receiver assembly. Allen screw in the inlet/probe hole up front (Edit: look in with a flashlight); allen screw in the loading area from above; and a bigger one at the rear of receiver. Remove all.

4.Lift complete assy off taking care not to lose the brass vent (transfer port) and the two black O rings (Edit: tiny O rings on the transfer port).

5.Remove trigger. Just push pin out with correct punch (Edit: nail or similar. Note one end of the pin is more rounded and that is the end you will re-insert first during replacement).

6 Remove rear end cap. A dicky operation. Sometimes they slide straight out,other times GGRRRR! Very easy to mark!! So use wood or plastic tools. (Edit: you can insert an Allen key into the trigger slot and push back to get the rear end cap/block out. When putting it back together you will need to carefully align the trigger hole with the matching end cap hole).

7.Remove bolt handle by undoing with allen key.

8.Insert finger and remove hammer assy and its shroud. (Edit: you can slide this out with any probe).

9.Reassy is reverse order. Just slip in the new hammer assy as is. Lube its outside with the FWB Grease and insert it inside its shroud. Lube it too externally.

Hope that helps


Now with the hammer out, depending on which model, you may find the slotted end of the rod is an integral part of the rod. But if it is obvious that that end is separate and screwed on (as in my pics in your other thread, then you can insert a nail into the hole at the front end, with the hole in the hammer head aligned ( peer through the hole and turn the hammer to align these ). By suitably clamping the nail you may be able to then unscrew the end off the rod. In which case the hammer and hammer spring will then drop out the front.
Then the job is to apply some heat to screw the head off.

Once off clean it all up and screw the rod in fully then back it out 2 full turns for a beginning point for trial after re-assembly. Remember you are looking for an MV of about 880 fps then with the transfer port screw screwed out 8 turns (far enough to be no hindrance to the air flow). When you have gone through the orevious instructions from Jerry, and you have 880 fps you will then turn the transfer port screw in until your MV is about 860 fps at 150 bar or about 840 fps at 200 bar. This will get you a velocity curve of something like 840 to 860 to 840 fps for an 850 fps average from 200 bar to 150 bar to 130 bar for 4 magazines of shots.

Now, going back: If the slotted nut on the hammer rod is integral to the rod (some later ones seemed to be) you may have to apply some careful heat to the shiny hammer head at its end and test frequently to see if the hammer head will unscrew. Loctite should not need much heat. Read again what Jerry wrote above this response.

None of this is difficult. The long story is to try to get you up to speed without too many steps being left out like aligning things to fit without force when replacing the receiver and barrel; or not cross-threading any screws when replacing them; or making notes as to your steps taken etc.

See how you go and if you get to a step you don't understand, stop and ask again. We want you to get to enjoy one of, if not the, simplest and most accurate PCP rifle ever made.
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Location: Pambula NSW

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